The “coili” of Barbagia: Sardinia’s Inland shelters, location scouting

The “Ovili” of Barbagia: Sardinia’s Inland Strongholds, Far from the Sea in Spirit
Tucked away in the rugged highlands of Barbagia, in central-eastern Sardinia, lie the ovili — ancient stone shelters and seasonal settlements used by shepherds for centuries. Though often less than an hour’s drive from the island’s spectacular coastline, these inland habitats are worlds apart in culture, rhythm, and worldview. In Sardinia, proximity to the sea has never guaranteed a connection to it — and nowhere is this more evident than in the life of the ovile.
The ovile (plural: ovili) is not just a physical structure; it’s a symbol of Sardinia’s pastoral soul, especially in Barbagia. Traditionally built from dry-stone and covered with branches or wooden beams, ovili served as both dwellings and animal shelters in the high pastures. Shepherds would spend long months there, far from villages and utterly disconnected from coastal life. Their days were dictated by transhumance, weather, and the care of flocks — not tides or trade winds.
Culturally, the sea held little allure in these communities. For many inland Sardinians, the coast was historically seen as a place of danger — a frontier exposed to pirates, foreign invaders, and unfamiliar ways of life. In contrast, the ovile represented autonomy, endurance, and identity. It was a retreat into the mountains, a place of solitude and self-reliance where ancient knowledge, oral traditions, and deep ties to the land were preserved.
Even today, despite modern roads and easier access to the coast, the cultural gap remains. Shepherding continues to define much of Barbagia’s identity. The language spoken in the ovili is rich in archaic terms; the food is simple, land-based, and seasonally driven. There is little in common with the seafood dishes and cosmopolitan pace of Sardinia’s coastal towns.
Yet, the ovili are not frozen in time. Some have been restored and integrated into experiential tourism, offering visitors a glimpse into a way of life that is disappearing — but not forgotten. These spaces now serve as bridges between past and present, inland and coast, while still preserving their inland soul.Perfect location for filming and fashion moods.

For filmmakers, photographers, and fashion creatives, scouting locations among these remote ovili is a unique and enriching experience — offering raw, timeless backdrops that capture the soul of an untouched Sardinia.
To truly understand Sardinia, one must go beyond the beaches. The ovili of Barbagia tell a quieter, older story — one of mountains, silence, resilience, and a culture born away from the sea, but deeply rooted in the island.